With all that was happening before and during a spring road trip up the coast last year in 2025, I did not manage to capture the highlights, nor even the lowlights, in my blog diary. The memory has blurred a little since 2025, but the feelings and photos remain with me and need to be written about before too much more post-trip time elapses. Some already has, of course, and will colour the memories, but that’s true of all of life’s retrospectivity.
The click of the front gate, the closing of the car boot, the last look around to make sure we were not doing any serious senior forgetting (a daily occurrence). Water bottles, Google maps and audiobooks loaded as we backed out of the driveway and pointed the trusty Mazda to the northern sun.
A driving holiday is so much easier than flying to Europe as we have so many times and involves much less adrenaline. No panic about negotiating freeways in time to the airport, no fear of forgetting passports and documents, nor worry about booking details and weighing of luggage. I am fortunate or mad enough to have done seven trips to Europe and not having to steel myself for a long haul flight suddenly felt deliciously refreshing even before we turned out of our street. This was the great Aussie road trip!
Unlike the claustrophobic panic I feel when the exit doors are closed on a plane, I knew that I could stop the car and get out any time I wanted to. Peter had polished said car so that its ‘crystal soul’ red duco gleamed and was rearing to go. We were off and running!
We planned to head east, then north, over the border, hugging the coast, taking three days to get to Jervis Bay; then to take the trip back slowly.
I love country motels, with their beige decor and unpainted brick interiors. Often there is still a flap in the door where they used to insert an ordered breakfast. Once on the road it is all we need, and helps us to focus down and leave complex life demands behind.
Orbost was far enough from home for our first motel stay and by the time we were ready to find dinner, the main street was very quiet. Undaunted by the bad experiences we have sometimes had at Chinese takeaways in country towns, we were ever hopeful, and found Leon Palace, an Asian place where we were almost the only customers – should we have been worried?
Before we knew it, we were conversing in Indonesian with the surprised and friendly female cook from Timor and enjoying great food. In just a few hours, I already felt liberated from cooking and the unwinding had begun. We slept so well – far enough back from the main road not to hear the trucks thundering all night.
Bermagui in NSW was the goal for the next leg of 3.5 hours (plus coffee, photo and nature stops). Bermagui Beach Hotel
https://bermaguibeachhotel.com.au/ was another one nighter as a trial run for staying there longer on the way home, and it did not disappoint. Right on the surf beach, we could hear the pounding waves at night. And a surprise! We found crunchy home-made muesli, fresh croissants with jam and coffee pods provided for breakfast. It had a spacious king size bed and we slept deeply. We were happy chappies when we drove off again.
The route north was stunning in spring. Through the national parks, the golden wattle and pink or white heath lined the road like a welcoming guard of honour. The new light green foliage was sprouting and we hummed along as if we were part of some spring festival curated just for us.
Podcasts passed the time and kept our minds away from what we had left at home. In between, we chatted – road trips are perfect for uninterrupted discussion and making some significant life decisions. Or just being quiet together.
Enjoying the views of the ocean as the road winds north, we finally arrived at Jervis Bay, which is a scenic area south of Sydney. Our accommodation was at Haven Holiday Resort in Sussex Inlet; https://fcswc.org.au/haven/ As we drove deep into the bush on a gravel road and reached the river, we knew that we had found the essence of holiday: serenity. This was literally the end of the road.
With five nights to unwind, we unpacked into the generous apartment and headed down the slope to the rippling water. The tide was in, leaving a narrow strip of rocky sand for us to explore.
It is a tidal estuary and part of the extensive canal and water system that attracts boating and flows into St George’s Basin. It was still and glimmering, all shades of transparent blue and sandy yellow framed by draping trees. We had it all to ourselves and we knew we had come to the right place.
Quiet nights, hats, sunscreen and sunglasses (a bit of a change after our winter), simple meals, reading and word puzzles. The stuff of holidays. Visits to our balcony from the kookaburras and king parrots were the biggest event of the day!
A day trip to Huskisson Beach uncovered the best fish and chips we have tasted for a while and a mangrove boardwalk also delighted us. We love places with helpful info boards to expand our knowledge. Squishy the pig loved it too.
We discovered a quiet drive to Swan Lake Inlet where the swans turned up to entertain us, almost like a line of ballerinas, and then we headed into the tiny village for the best Thai meal we had had for a while. Our world was bush, wildlife, sunsets and water views – it slows you down to a healthy mindfulness. We needed that.
Ulladulla is only a short distance south, but is a much bigger centre. Although we had stairs to negotiate, it was worth being upstairs for the marvellous wide view of the harbour to the horizon from the top of the hill. Aptly named Harbour View Apartments, https://harbourviewulladulla.com.au/rooms.html our spot was very well equipped and was owned by a friendly family business.
Some highlights were that Peter braved the surf for the first time at Mollymook beach, that we conveniently had Coles, Woollies and Aldi across the road, that we scored the spectacular annual orchid show and that we did some impulsive shopping at Harris Scarfe’s big sale.
We also survived the most rainfall in one night in recorded history in the town, and felt grateful to be at the top of the hill as we watched the deluge flow downwards away from us.
Two things were very special: we caught up with our colleagues from West Papua days, Frank and Di, at their lovely lakeside home, and talked the night away. No one else shares the experiences that we have, and the decades evaporated as we swapped memories and stories. Di, like Peter, is a visual artist, so we had a wonderful visit to her community gallery in Milford. We loved her work, which focuses on nature.
The second was that Ulladulla has a dedicated wildflower trail with lots of information to help with identification. We were almost alone, searching beside the track for little pops of yellow, purple and white in a background of beautifully preserved bushland with a sound track of bird song. It was like being somewhere else altogether, yet feeling at home in the iconic Australian bush. The inside stresses I was still carrying just dialled down a few notches.
On a walk at the lighthouse on the headland we had the first whale sighting of several later views down the coast. I have never seen whales in the ocean before; somehow it is just awe-inspiring to see them enjoying their ocean migration route down the coast. Like us really!
As we headed south, returning to Bermagui, we stopped for lunch in a quaint little place called Mogo. Di had told us about a wonderful art and craft shop where Peter could get supplies, but on the other side of the road was the Fudge Shop. The perfect holiday indulgence, so what can you do? We stocked up on gift boxes to take home and chose a few for ourselves, hitting the road again before we found anything else!
Bermagui is the quintessential beach getaway. It is a little off the main highway, has a glorious surf beach with a grassy foreshore and walking tracks to rocky outcrops. It was definitely whale season and they turned up! Peter got on his Sydney surfing persona and went in every day – on one occasion sharing the sea with whales.
More cliff walks, rocks, sunsets and cafes, all with a background of pounding waves. When we rested up in our room, we had the World Athletic Championships to binge, as well as our favourite streamed shows.
And every morning, more fresh breakfast with double the coffee pods when they discovered that we like it strong. Friendly service is always a win.
One day we found a rocky outcrop on a drive to the south and spent ages trying to photograph a lone dragonfly that circled us the whole time we were there, apparently attracted to my hat. It is an hour we won’t get back, but it was incredibly peaceful, a kind of mindfulness and dragonfly appreciation.
Before we left that isolated trail, we met more Indonesians, and surprised them too by speaking with them. They were a proud family out here for their son’s graduation. Predictably, they wanted photos with us. Going in and out of solitude and interaction is one of the fun parts of travel.
An unplanned discovery was a nursery/pottery which had a beautiful combination of plants and containers. The owner couple were from California, and both create pots. https://www.bermaguimudworks.com.au/ We don’t buy many souvenirs, but a lovely pair of coffee mugs came home with us and we use them every day. I can almost see Bermagui in the froth!
Since the glorious sunsets we enjoyed in Tuscany, we have made more effort to be out in the evening; Bermagui’s waterways and headlands rewarded us well with rosy glowing skies.
This classic coastal holiday town has everything, and we dream now of returning one day. In the meantime, if things get stressful or pressured, we look at one another and say, ‘Bermagui’. The very memory works wonders on blood pressure!
We left reluctantly and a few hours later were driving around Mallacoota Lake to Karbethong Lodge. https://www.karbeethonglodge.com.au/ back in Victoria again! Somehow the accommodation guides had worked well for us and this site was breathtaking. The expansive gardens led down to the lakeside, where we could never run out of drives and walks. The still water of the lake was very different from the pounding surf of the coast, and Mallacoota has both.
The Lodge has quite a history and the host couple were friendly. By the time we left they were asking us if we would like to buy it when they sell soon!
The rooms were small and lacked a few amenities, but we had the entire property to ourselves, including a huge communal kitchen and a magnificent breakfast.
We had not stayed in Mallacoota since the days of family holidays, so there was plenty to explore. Part of its attraction is that the little town is well off the main highway. We liked the Chinese takeaway so much that we went there three times!
The headland in the township has peaceful walks with shallow rippling water reflections and white native clematis draped everywhere on the trees. The school holiday crowds had not arrived yet, allowing us space to explore on our own.
Yet another walk with wildflowers was stunning – the water views beyond it framed with old burnt trees from the shocking fires of 2019.
We were almost entirely alone, apart from a German bird watcher and an elderly lady who tripped and fell on her face right near us. Peter was able to help her son to pull her up to her feet as she couldn’t get up herself (I know what that feels like). They are lucky we just happened to be there.
One of the most amazing beach trips was to Granite Rock beach. A short walk on this isolated bit of coast took us to incredible formations with coloured stripes. We felt we were in the presence of. Era old formations and had yet another feast for the senses, with nothing to do but wander and enjoy.
We gazed in wonder at the stretch of water where the Southern Ocean meets the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea – turbulence and power that has caused many shipwrecks. We spent so much time just looking at water and waves. The power of God’s creation as well as the beauty is overwhelming and refreshing all at once.
Psalm 89:9 You rule the raging of the sea; when its waves rise, you still them.
Mallacoota has a lovely art gallery with local exhibits which rewarded our visit. Unlike on our Europe trips, we had hardly been inside a gallery at all!
Driving, walking, reading, sleeping. The holiday routine was working its magic for us.
I had a slightly reluctant feeling as we headed to the Lakes area – it was to be our last stay. Metung is a little north of the touristy Lakes Entrance and this time we had chosen Hollow Creek Cabin, an AirBnB in the bush. Of all our stays, this one was not quite up to its advertised facilities, but fine for the last two nights. Although it was supposed to be self-contained, it was just the back section of the house; the advertised ‘Parisian kitchen’ should have alerted us! Basic accommodation was made up for by glorious bush surroundings with animals, birds and a lovely garden.
Apart from the extraordinary deluge in Ulladulla, this was the first rain we had experienced, so we worked our way around the showers. With no more destinations before home, we enjoyed just resting and reading. Peter did a drawing of the horse out the back – finally putting pen to paper at our last stop! It was also the last day of school term, and Metung was attractively uncrowded before the holiday crowds arrived.
In our last hours we popped into Nyerimilang Heritage Park. Although the old homestead was closed, the gardens were magnificent in their effusive spring blooming. I rather liked the mix of native and exotic plants – boronias and bluebells in the same garden bed – and noted that the birds seemed to enjoy it too.
Our significant sign on the last day was a glowing rainbow over the river, an arch full of promise over the local pelicans. For those with faith, it is always a promise of hope.
Squishy the pig was thrilled when we stopped to buy yet another toy pig for our grandson; this one was almost the size of a real piglet. Grandparents are allowed to spoil their grandkids!
It was a classic road trip – lightly planned but rich in beauty, connections and surprises.
The challenges at home were still there for us to take up again, but God’s amazing creation had fed our souls. Relaxed and precious time together always renews our love and gratitude for each other. Anywhere we go together is great.
